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Joined 2 years ago
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Cake day: July 15th, 2023

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  • Lithium-* batteries don’t actually have any specific useful numbers. It’s something like this (the actual numbers are pulled out of my ass and depends on battery time and test parameters and even then I’m simplifying):

    • At 0 volts, the battery is dead.

    • At 1 volts, the battery is practically dead.

    • Discharging to 2 volts kills it after around 100 times.

    • Discharging to 3 volts kills it after around 10 000 times

    • Discharging to 3.5 volts kills it after 100 000 times

    • Charging to 4 volts kills it after 100 000 times

    • Charging to 4.2 volts kills it after 10 000 times

    • Charging to 4.3 volt kills it after 1000 times

    • Charging to 4.4 volts kills it after 100 times

    • Charging to 4.5 has s significant chance of it catching fire

    Now choose how many charge cycles you want it to survive, and you know which voltage to consider 0% and which to consider 100%. The bigger difference, the bigger capacity with the same battery.

    This is why a phone with 0% battery can tell you that it’s out of battery.

    You can also adjust what “killed” means. Is it when battery capacity is reduced to 80%? 50%?

    I have to repeat - the numbers are not accurate, and this is strongly simplified.

    It’s just an illustration of what 0% and 100% means it’s just where you are on the useful range, according to the manufacturers definition of useful.












  • You’re not getting the point.

    A: You csn shop there without an account. It’s your own choice. An account has pros and cons, and it’s your choice.

    B: I don’t know how it works in US, but in my country a McDonald’s account is a fair deal to me. They pay me a fair price for some personal info. And if I go to McDonald’s and I for any reason feel like they shouldn’t register that particular visit, I just don’t use my account.

    C: I want to use Windows, but logging into a Microsoft account does not give me any benefits worth the cons. So I use Windows without a Microsoft account. And it will be annoying to keep track of a “fake” account just for that.







  • Great.

    1: How do I get an RTSP or ONVIF? Every time I try to buy one, the stuff that is recommended is no longer available, or practically only available in US. (I haven’t checked in months maybe years, but this is where I usually get stuck.)

    2: So I get a camera, and I have an rpi or PC-based server with storage. I can see a stream, but that’s just an extra eye. How do I turn this into a surveillance camera, so I get a notification when there’s movement, and an archive of people in the monitored area?